Bert Stern, Twiggy wearing a mod minidress by Louis Féraud + leather shoes by Francois Villon, Vogue, 1967, c Condé Nast

Si tratta di quasi 250 fotografie realizzate tra il 1910 e la fine degli anni Settanta per le riviste del gruppo editoriale Condé Nast, che definiscono lo stile e tracciano l’evoluzione dell’industria della moda sullo sfondo dei cambiamenti radicali della cultura occidentale. Naturalmente fanno parte della collezione anche alcune opere, mai esposte in precedenza a Berlino, di Helmut Newton, dato che l’artista ha contribuito ampiamente a partire dagli anni Cinquanta, a riviste come Vogue e Vanity Fair.

Helmut Newton, Patti Hansen in YSL, Promenade des Anglais, Nice 1976, copyright Helmut Newton Foundation, courtesy Condé Nast

La mostra riunisce i grandi della fotografia come Diane Arbus, Cecil Beaton, John Deakin, David Bailey, Robert Frank, Horst P. Horst, Evelyn Hofer, George Hoyningen-Huene, Peter Hujar, William Klein, Ugo Mulas, Lisette Model, Irving Penn, Bert Stern, Deborah Turbeville e Chris von Wangenheim. 

Strauss-Peyton Studio, Actor Charlie Chaplin, Vanity Fair, 1921, copyright Condé Nast

Organizzato per decenni, il percorso inizia nel 1910, un anno dopo l’acquisizione della rivista Vogue da parte di Condé Nast. In quegli anni, le fotografie erano ancora relativamente rare, per cui di quell’epoca sono esposti numerosi disegni di celebri illustratori di moda. E’ solo nel decennio successivo che l’arte fotografica emerge davvero. Quella in bianco e nero è rimasta a lungo lo standard, la prima immagine a colori in mostra risale infatti al 1952 ed è scattata da Irving Penn, autore di oltre 100 copertine di Vogue. 

Alexis Waldeck, Actress-singer Liza Minnelli, Vogue, 1967, copyright Condé Nast

Oltre a scatti di moda, sono esposti anche ritratti, nature morte, architettura, ed anche esempi di fotografia giornalistica. Un’altra particolarità è che in esposizione ci sono le stampe vintage originali, ritrovate nell’archivio Condé Nast. La mostra è sotto la curatela congiunta di Matthieu Humery, Consulente per la Fotografia della Pinault Collection e Matthias Harder, Direttore della Helmut Newton Foundation.

Chronorama. Photography Treasures of the 20th Century

Helmut Newton Foundation
Jebenstraße 2
10623 Berlin

Fino al 20 maggio 2024

Photo Credits Cover: Cecil Beaton, Actress Marlene Dietrich, Vanity Fair, 1932, copyright Condé Nast

L’articolo Chronorama. Photography Treasures of the 20th Century proviene da Isabella Radaelli.

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