After an hard selection, these are the best foods I had in 2017 and where to find them. 

The name of Altin Prenga won’t tell you much probably. This young chef is one of the brothers who own Mrizi i Zanave (literally “fairies’ shadows”, from the novel of local poet Gjergj Fishta), a restaurant and agritourism near Lezhe, north of Albania. Set in a beautiful countryside, between mountains of pomegranate trees and close to the sea, the place itself is amazing: cowshed, vineyard of Kallmet and happy chickens running in the barnyard. But this lands still keeps some wounds of Hoxha’s dictatorship from which they’re trying to escape and get something vital and joyful: so they transformed a labour camp just near the fields in a workshop and warehouse to store and process wild pomegranates.

​I spent a lunch at Mrizi i Zanave in November and I can assure you it’s a “worth a plane” experience. It’s hard to mention a single food because the idea of Altin is to offer the best of what his land can offer, provided by local selected producers, like olive oil, goat cheese and porcini mushrooms, taken from the woods and served as a starter. But don’t expect just simple dishes. The greatness of Mziri stands in the will to enhance the quality of ingredients with new ideas and techniques. So you get a blackberry sorbet stick served on its own twig, an ice bowl that hides a flower gelato or a small wild pomegranate with its fermented juice. Now that you know who Altin is, I’m sure you’re already checking the flights to Tirana.

Where to eat it 
Mrizi i Zanave Rruga “Lezhë – Vau i Dejës”, Fishtë, Lezhë 4505, Albania
Tel. +355 69 210 8032
​mrizizanave.com

I love foods that tell more about the history of a country. This is the case of Alheira. According to tradition this sausage was created during Middle Ages by cristãos novos, the Portuguese forcedly converted to Christianity, who secretly continued to respect the rules of their original Jewish faith, which had officially abolished, so that they would seem satisfied and integrated Christians. As Judaism forbids the consumption of pork meat, some of them invented a kind of sausage where pork was replaced by birds like turkey or chicken.

​Alheira was created in the north of Portugal (Trás-os-Montes region) where it’s grilled on a low heat, accompanied by boiled potatoes and an olive oil with seasonal vegetables. Further south, you can find it fried and that’s how I had it in Porto. My friend Veronica introduced me to Alheira and it first I wasn’t that intrigued. “A sausage with chicken? What a terrible idea!” I said just before biting. Then everything changed. It was so far one of the most delicious and tasty dishes I’ve ever tried.

Where to eat it
Ernesto
Rua da Picaria 85, 4000 Porto
Tel. ​+351 22 200 2600

Despite my DNA (my grandfather was a butcher), if I have to choose between fish and meat I have no doubts. Even if it’s not exactly famous for its seafood tradition, I have a long list of restaurants to eat great fish in Bologna too. Max Poggi is for sure a meat man.
Our paths had crossed a couple of times recently, at Mangirò foodie walk on the hills and at Tortellino Festival, where he prepared one of the best tortellini of the event. So I decided to visit his restaurant in Trebbo di Reno for a special anniversary.

Location is elegant, service professional but informal (waiters are young guys dressed casual, a lot different atmosphere than Osteria Francescana). Even if Michelin’s inspectors seem to look away from this land, Poggi’s cuisine has nothing to envy to the best Michelin stars of Bologna area. Through a 4 courses menu (60€) called “Divertiti” (“have fun”), paired with a Friulano white wine (22€), I had all I expect from a great restaurant. Creativity, bravery, humility. My favourite dish was the pigeon, a classic of bolognese cuisine, perfectly cooked with coal. One last credit? I hate Russian salad and he made me love it.

Where to eat it
Massimiliano Poggi Cucina
Via Lame, 65, 40013 Trebbo di Reno(BO)
​Tel. 051 704217

Rosaria has a red cat called “Pinuzzo”. He used to approach me for breakfast during a week in the Sicilian island of Favignana, to get some bread and cuddles. That’s how I met Rosaria. She’s not a nonna, she doesn’t have children, but looks like that. Cozy and warm, like only the women of the south of Italy can be, she opened her house (and her kitchen) to a stranger neighbour.
On my last day on the island she woke up early, bought different kind of fresh fish (scorpionfish, grouper, tub gurnard) from the fisherman and then started to prepare cuscus.

It’s a a dish of magrebine tradition, brought to western Sicily during the Arab domination. Like most traditional dishes, it takes a lot of time to be prepared. Cuscus is made with durum wheat grain, to which water is added in the ritual of “incocciatura“, the creation of tiny balls (“cocci“) on the palm of hands. Then it’s cooked in a special perforated pot, where cuscus absorbs the flavors of the underlying broth. Rosaria prepares cuscus about 3 times a year for his nephews. I was lucky enough to be invited and share one of the best lunch ever with this new family.

Where to eat it
Cantina Siciliana
​Via Giudecca, 36, 91100 Trapani TP
Tel: + 39 0923 28673

Isfahan in central Iran is a city called “Half of the world”, due to its incredible Persian architecture made of boulevards, covered bridges, palaces and mosques. I visited it in April and still keep a great memory of this land: its people, its culture, its food.
Beryani in Persian means “fried”, so nothing to do with the Indian version which includes rice. Inside Isfahan’s bazaar, between spice and copper shops, you can find a rough place that serves fried lamb meat patty, crowned with pistachio, snuggled inside a tender taftoon bread.
The old man sat next to me, showed me how to eat Iranian Beryani: just with your hands. He cut a piece of bread, put some meat and wild herbs in the middle and then bite. To better digest Beryani he drank kashk, a preserved goat’s milk yoghurt similar to Turkish ayran. It wasn’t exactly the lightest dish ever (it took me a full day of walking to digest it actually) but for sure one of the most delicious.

Where to eat it
Azam Beryani
​Kamal Esmaeel St., Esfahan 81464, Iran
Tel. +98 31 1212 5730

Where to sleep
Nasim at Howzak House can host you in his beautiful traditional house in a great position and the best Iranian welcome

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From Albania to Iran, from Portugal and Sicily to Bologna. These are the best foods I had in 2017 and where to find them. 

The name of Altin Prenga won’t tell you much probably. This young chef is one of the brothers who own Mrizi i Zanave (literally “fairies’ shadows”, from the novel of local poet Gjergj Fishta), a restaurant and agritourism near Lezhe, north of Albania.
Set in a beautiful countryside, between mountains of pomegranate trees and close to the sea, the place itself is amazing: cowshed, vineyard of Kallmet and happy chickens running in the barnyard. But this lands still keeps some wounds of Hoxha’s dictatorship from which they’re trying to escape and get something vital and joyful: so they transformed a labour camp just near the fields in a workshop and warehouse to store and process wild pomegranates.

​I spent a lunch at Mrizi i Zanave in November and I can assure you it’s a “worth a plane” experience. It’s hard to mention a single food because the idea of Altin is to offer the best of what his land can offer, provided by local selected producers, like olive oil, goat cheese and porcini mushrooms, taken from the woods and served as a starter. But don’t expect just simple dishes.
​The greatness of Mziri stands in the will to enhance the quality of ingredients with new ideas and techniques. So you get a blackberry sorbet stick served on its own twig, an ice bowl that hides a flower gelato or a small wild pomegranate with its fermented juice. Now that you know who Altin is, I’m sure you’re already checking the flights to Tirana.

Where to eat it 
Mrizi i Zanave Rruga “Lezhë – Vau i Dejës”, Fishtë, Lezhë 4505, Albania
Tel. +355 69 210 8032
​mrizizanave.com

I love foods that tell more about the history of a country. This is the case of Alheira. According to tradition this sausage was created during Middle Ages by cristãos novos, the Portuguese forcedly converted to Christianity, who secretly continued to respect the rules of their original Jewish faith, which had officially abolished, so that they would seem satisfied and integrated Christians. As Judaism forbids the consumption of pork meat, some of them invented a kind of sausage where pork was replaced by birds like turkey or chicken.

​Alheira was created in the north of Portugal (Trás-os-Montes region) where it’s grilled on a low heat, accompanied by boiled potatoes and an olive oil with seasonal vegetables. Further south, you can find it fried and that’s how I had it in Porto. My friend Veronica introduced me to Alheira and it first I wasn’t that intrigued. “A sausage with chicken? What a terrible idea!” I said just before biting. Then everything changed. It was so far one of the most delicious and tasty dishes I’ve ever tried.

Where to eat it
Ernesto
Rua da Picaria 85, 4000 Porto
Tel. ​+351 22 200 2600

Despite my DNA (my grandfather was a butcher), if I have to choose between fish and meat I have no doubts. Even if it’s not exactly famous for its seafood tradition, I have a long list of restaurants to eat great fish in Bologna too. Max Poggi is for sure a meat man.
Our paths had crossed a couple of times recently, at Mangirò foodie walk on the hills and at Tortellino Festival, where he prepared one of the best tortellini of the event. So I decided to visit his restaurant in Trebbo di Reno for a special anniversary.

Location is elegant, service professional but informal (waiters are young guys dressed casual, a lot different atmosphere than Osteria Francescana). Even if Michelin’s inspectors seem to look away from this land, Poggi’s cuisine has nothing to envy to the best Michelin stars of Bologna area. Through a 4 courses menu (60€) called “Divertiti” (“have fun”), paired with a Friulano white wine (22€), I had all I expect from a great restaurant. Creativity, bravery, humility. My favourite dish was the pigeon, a classic of bolognese cuisine, perfectly cooked with coal.

​One last credit? I hate Russian salad and he made me love it.

Where to eat it
Massimiliano Poggi Cucina
Via Lame, 65, 40013 Trebbo di Reno(BO)
​Tel. 051 704217

Rosaria has a red cat called “Pinuzzo”. He used to approach me for breakfast during a week in the Sicilian island of Favignana, to get some bread and cuddles. That’s how I met Rosaria. She’s not a nonna, she doesn’t have children, but looks like that. Cozy and warm, like only the women of the south of Italy can be, she opened her house (and her kitchen) to a stranger neighbour.
On my last day on the island she woke up early, bought different kind of fresh fish (scorpionfish, grouper, tub gurnard) from the fisherman and then started to prepare cuscus.

It’s a a dish of magrebine tradition, brought to western Sicily during the Arab domination. Like most traditional dishes, it takes a lot of time to be prepared. Cuscus is made with durum wheat grain, to which water is added in the ritual of “incocciatura“, the creation of tiny balls (“cocci“) on the palm of hands. Then it’s cooked in a special perforated pot, where cuscus absorbs the flavors of the underlying broth. Rosaria prepares cuscus about 3 times a year for his nephews. I was lucky enough to be invited and share one of the best lunch ever with this new family.

Where to eat it
Cantina Siciliana
​Via Giudecca, 36, 91100 Trapani TP
Tel: + 39 0923 28673

Isfahan in central Iran is a city called “Half of the world”, due to its incredible Persian architecture made of boulevards, covered bridges, palaces and mosques. I visited it in April and still keep a great memory of this land: its people, its culture, its food.
Beryani in Persian means “fried”, so nothing to do with the Indian version which includes rice. Inside Isfahan’s bazaar, between spice and copper shops, you can find a rough place that serves fried lamb meat patty, crowned with pistachio, snuggled inside a tender taftoon bread.

An old man sat next to me, showed me how to eat Iranian Beryani: just with your hands.
He cut a piece of bread, put some meat and wild herbs in the middle and then bite. To better digest Beryani he drank kashk, a preserved goat’s milk yoghurt similar to Turkish ayran. It wasn’t exactly the lightest dish ever (it took me a full day of walking to digest it actually) but for sure one of the most delicious.

Where to eat it
Azam Beryani
​Kamal Esmaeel St., Esfahan 81464, Iran
Tel. +98 31 1212 5730

Where to sleep
Nasim at Howzak House can host you in his beautiful traditional house in a great position and the best Iranian welcome

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Andrea, where I can have the best tortellini in Bologna? I can’t remember how many times I’ve heard this question, but all the times I give a very vague answer. 
The truth is I usually don’t order tortellini at the restaurant. If you still haven’t left the website I explain the reason: tortellini for me and lots of bolognesi mean winter Sunday lunch with family, Christmas dinner with gifts and Panettone etc. It’s a special dish for special occasions, that takes time to be prepared, not something we have everyday and in every season. But every year there’s a way to find out which is the restaurant that makes the best tortellini. ​

Oct.4th is St.Petronio, a very important day for Bologna. Lots of celebrations, parties and one unique event for foodies. Tour Tlen(tortellino in our slang) Association created this event 6 years ago with the aim of having together the best chefs of Bologna and make them challenge on our most popular pasta.
Just 2 rules: 

1. the dough must be handmade with wood rolling pin 
2. the shape of tortellino must be the classic one.

Except those, every chef is free to create and innovate, mix and combine. 
Tortellino Festival takes place in the stunning hall of Palazzo Re Enzo and in 2017 hosted 24 different chefs.
​With 20€ you can have 5 different tasting of tortellini.

I carefully selected and tried 3 different tortellini:

Acqua Pazza
My first choice. I went straight to them to taste their fish tortellini with ray, anchovies, buffalo mozzarella in butter and truffle sauce. I’ve first run into this fish restaurant just outside Bologna at Mangirò food walk, where they prepared an amazing shrimp with gazpacho, and I was looking forward to meeting them again. Hardcore bolognesi can be skeptical about a fish tortellino, but for me it was just a perfect and well balanced dish.

Ristorante Cesoia
I was scrolling down Facebook newsfeed when I encountered a photo of a red&blue tortellini. I first thought about a well made work of Photoshop but then I read and realized it was an idea of Pietro Montanari. This young chef has a family tradition in Bologna and took Ristorante Cesoia by the hands of his grandfather 3 years ago. But how to make it look like them? I’m curious, I asked him. He decided to separate the filling: on the red one he mixed in the dough the pork loin and mortadella, for the blue ones he put the pollanca (pullet) with some squid ink and dried kale. This tortellini weren’t just an aesthetic divertissement, but a real example of the skills and imagination of this young guy.  

Massimiliano Poggi
Finally a classic tortellino. Cooked in beef and capon broth by the hands of Max Poggi, probably one of the most underrated chef of Bologna. Max is out of the Michelin Stars circuit and prefers to stay in the kitchen rather than walking around the tables, but his cuisine has nothing to envy to awarded restaurants of the area. He well combines modern techniques and grandmother’s tips, respects the tradition but looks forward to innovation and collaboration. A dinner at his restaurant in Trebbo di Reno worth a special occasion. Like a good bowl of hot tortellini.

Ristorante Cesoia
Via  Massarenti, 90/2d, Bologna
Tel. 051 340942
www.ristorantecesoia.it

Acqua Pazza
Via Murri, 168, Bologna
Tel. 051 443422
www.acquapazzabologna.it

Massimiliano Poggi
Via Lame, 65, Trebbo (BO)
Tel. 051 704217
www.mpoggi.it

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